在疫情期间，一些时装设计师呼吁彻底改变时尚规则，减少举办时装秀的频率。但米兰时装周主办方 Camera della Moda 意大利国家时装商会主席 Carlo Capasa 先生明确体现：古板的时尚日程将会延续，未来仍将每年举办四次时装周。
Carlo Capasa 解释道：“我仍然认为，我们应该每年举办两次男装周和两次女装周，因为它们属于差别的行业。总的来说，我认为这是坚持平衡的最好要领。这两个差别的行业面向差别的买手，差别的零售商和制造商。这是事实。一些品牌可能想要与众差别，男女同台走秀，我认为，这也是一个好的选择。”
由于新冠病毒疫情，Carlo Capasa在4月份做出决定，取消了今年6月的男装周，部分替换为将于7月14日至17日举办的米兰数字时装周 (Milan Digital Fashion Week)。
本月，以 Dries Van Noten为首的一群设计师，包括：Craig Green、Tory Burch和 Thom Browne等业内人士，都呼吁放慢时尚的脚步，接纳灵活的宣布时间。
Gucci（古驰）创意总监 Alessandro Michele 本周也在其 Instagram 账号上呼吁对时尚行业进行重大调解。
这些设计师们认为，时装秀的举办时间应该更贴近产品真正进入零售门店的实际日期。但 Carlo Capasa坚持，2021年米兰时装周仍会接纳古板日程：在1月和6月各举办一场男装周，在2月和9月各举办一场女装周。
Carlo Capasa 解释说：“虽然，一切都取决于疫情的控制。但我们希望明年能回归正常……现在，每个人都非�？释谋湟磺�。可是改变应该来自我们的内心。别忘了，时尚行业从已往到现在一直运营得很好�？纯唇裉齑笞诶殖傻哪昵嵘杓剖�。就像我们意大利语中说的：Non buttare il neonato con l ‘acqua sporca。这句话的意思是：不要把你的孩子连同洗澡水一起倒掉。”
Carlo Capasa 给出了许多不更改古板日程的理由。他说：“我完全差别意在开始真正销售某个系列之前才举办时装秀的看法。时装秀酿成了一个商业计划，而不是一种创立性的展示。所以，准备时装秀成了造型师和跟单员的事情，削弱了设计师的重要性。”
“其次，如果品牌基于六个月前的过往销量来安排时装秀，你在创立力方面的自由度就会大大降低。我们也相信，留给媒体足够的时间去拍摄和泛起新趋势，并转达给客户，以及留给消费者足够的时间去消化这些创意，是很重要的。平面媒体仍然是我们行业的重要组成部分。如果我们抹杀了这个市场，那就只剩下 Instagram等数字社交媒体了。这并不是一个好主意。”
“我们不相信纯粹的营销。我想我们在法国的同行也有同样的想法。未来不是靠市场营销，而是要创立梦想。另外，我们不接受即看即买的想法，纵然某几个品牌已经实验过这种做法。Burberry或 Tom Ford实验过，效果不是很好，不是吗?”
但 Carlo Capasa 也对 Dries Van Noten等人的一些诉苦体现了认同：太过降价对时尚行业爆发了很大的负面影响。
他说：“打扮店对季节的依赖太强。随处都在降价。我们需要重新树立起这样的看法：我们的产品是有价值的。遗憾的是，快时尚导致了产品过剩。”
Carlo Capasa 强调：“我们的目标是努力为设计师和品牌创立最好的时机来表达自己。无论是数字化照旧线下的时机。”
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米兰时装周主办方体现：古板时装周日程安排无需改变
Source： Time：2020-05-28 16:42:54 views：
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